Improvement in sewing and embroidering machines



` El 3SheetsSheet 1. Sewing and Embroidering Machine.

Patented Se NPETERS, PHOTDLITHDGRAPHER, WASHINGTON. D C.

i 3 Sheets-Sheet 3. VBooming? sewing and Embroidering Machine.

No. 219,225. l Patented Sept. 2', 1879.

j Y ju'g.

l e llllllllllmlllllllll ".PETERS. FHQTO-UTHDGRAFHER. WASHINGTON. Dv C.

UNITED STATES PATENT EEIGE.

EMILE coRNELY, oF PARIS, FRANCE.

IMPROVEMENT |N vsl-:wlNc AND EMBROIDERING MAoi-nNEs.M

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No.V 219,225, datedSeptember 2, 1879; application filed October 14, 1878; patented inEngland, J une 27, 1877; patent-ed in France, J une 15, 1877.

To all whomt't mayvconcem:

Be itknown that I, EMILE CORNELY, a resident of rParis,in the Republicof France,

have invented new and usefullmprovements in ering seams with a singlethread, and in the construction and combination of parts, as hereinaftermore fully set forth.

A number of simultaneously movingneedlehooks are employed. After thesehooks have passed through the fabric a thread-carrier which vibrates oroscillates back and forth in a horizontal plane lays the thread in thehooks. A number of reciprocating blades with hooks at the ends arepushed between the needles, and produce the necessary slack thread andinsure the taking of the thread in the needlehooks. Four studs,operating in connection with two spring-blades secured to a plateattached to the casting of the machine under thebed-plate, and with thethread-carrier, hold the end of the thread, and serve to insure theproper laying of the thread in the hooks; After the thread has beenplaced in the needlehooks they are drawn upward through the fabric, andlay the loops upon the top, and return for the formation of other loops,which are drawn upward through the first-formed loops on the next upwardmovement of the needle-hooks. g

Y The following description will enable those skilled in the art tomake'fand use my invention, reference being hadto theaccompanyspring-blades attached thereto; Fig. 13, the

to the nipple-tube; Fig. 17, a detached bot-.

tom view of mechanism for operating the thread-carrier and reciprocatingblades, on the same scale as in Fig. 13; Figs. 18 and 19, de-

tached views, respectively in section and in elevation, on the samescale, of part of the mechanism for operating the studs; Figs. 20

and 21, enlarged views of the means for regulating the forward limit ofmotion of the reciprocating blades; Fig. 22, a detached View, on thescale of Fig. 13, of means for keeping the lever operating thereciprocating blades against its cam, the rod operating the studs beingshown in position beside it 5 Fig. 23, a bottom view of the machine withall the parte in position 5 Fig. 24, a section on line ma, Fig. 23; andFig. 25, a top view of the stitch-forming devices used in connectionwith the needlehooks in position in the cloth-platelof the machine.

My invention may be applied to machines of different kinds; but I preferto apply it to what is known as the Bonnaz embroideringmachine,77 forwhich Letters Patent were granted to me on the 10th day of November,1868, inasmuch as suitable mechanism for operating the needle-hooks anduniversal feed are used therein, the said feed being capable ofemployment on one-third of a circle for doing edge-work. I shalltherefore confine my description to those parts which are different fromor are not found in said machine.

A represents the needle-hooks, which are secured to one or to severalneedle-bars of a sewing or embroidering machine in such a manner that-they rise and descend simultaneously. B represents the cloth-plate ofthe machine, through which suitable holes are made for the passage ofthe hooks, and which holes are connected with one another by means ofslots for the passage of the thread. Crepresents a thread-carrier, whichhas an alternate oscillating motion around the needlehooks, and whichlays its thread against said hooks, so that they can take hold of itintheir upward motion and draw the loops above the cloth. D D and E E arefour studs, which have an upward and downward motion, and whoseoperation will be described hereinafter. G represent small blades, whichhave a horizontal reciprocating motion, and which are pushed between theneedles to produce the necessary slack thread, and to secure the takingof said thread by means ofthe hooks A, as will be more fullydescribed. pis a plate, which is secured to the castings of the machine under thebed-plate B, and whose shape is shown in Fig 11. n and 0 are twospring-blades, which are secured to the plate p. The studs D E arepressed against the free ends of said springblades by the constantaction of a spiral spring, and the studs D E project into holes` of saidsprings when in their highest position. Both the studs D E and D' E aresecured to one and the same vertical shaft.

The thread-carrier C is secured to the face ofa small pinion, F, whichreceives its oscilare themselves secured in the sleeve H, Figs.

13, 14, and 15, by means of setscrcws 2,3, and 4. This sleeve orneedle-bar holder is provided with a tubular projection, 5, Fi 0'. 14,of smaller diameter, which is secured within the part l by the setscrew6, Fig. 13.

The needles pass through a number of hole in the lower part of thenipple K, which is secured to the nipple-tube L by means of a collar, i,and the screw-nut h'. (See Figs. 13 and 16.) A pin on the end of thenipple-tube enters the notch 7 in the collar t', so that the nipple willalways be screwed 011 in proper position.

M, Fig. 13, represents the main drivin g-shaft, from which all themovements of the various devices are derived. l

The manner of operating the part I to reciprocate the needle-bars, andthe use ofthe nipple K, and also the other devices in'immediateconnection therewith, are well known in the Bonnaz machine, beforereferred to, and need not be here more particularly specified.

On the shaft M is secured a helical pinion, N, which drives a helicaltoothed wheel, O, of double its diameter, secured to the vertical shaftP. A crank, U, on the lower part of this shaft operates the pitman V. y

At the opposite end of the pitman V, Figs. 17, 23, and 24, is secured bya loose joint the rack lV. This rack gears with a pinion, 7, which isattached to the upper side of the gearwheel 8, which engages with thcpinion F, on the upper part of which the tlnead-carrier is secured, asbefore stated. means of this mechanism, at cach revolution of the shaftM the thread-carrier is oscillated to the right or left alternately..

The cam Q,' Figs. 13, 17, 22, and 23, is secured to the shaft P, andrevolves with it.

The lever R, turning on the pin S, which is attached to the under sideof the bed-plate of the machine, carries at-one end a roller, 13, whichis kept in contact with the face of the cam Q by the spring 10. Toinsure the perfect contact, especially at high speeds, a ca-mshapedpiece, 20, Fig. 22, is sometimes secured to the short arm of the leverR, so that by the bearing of the pins 21 at the proper moment againstits inner face, 23, the end ofthe lever follows always the circumferenceof the cam Q. The cam Q is shaped as shown, so that the lever lt isreciprocated twice-at each revolution of the shaft P, or once duringeach revolution ofthe main shaftM.

At the end of the long arm of the lever R is pivotcd a link, l2, bylneans of a pin,-14. This link is pivoted at 15`to a slide, T, to whichthe blades G, above mentioned, are attached. By the rotation of the camQ, therefore, the blades G are reciprocated. forward movement of theseblades is regulated by the adjustment of the pin 14 in the lever R.Referring to Figs. 2() and 21, it will be seen that this pin 14 iseccentrically secured to a shaft, which turns in a bearing at the end ofaforesaid lever. On the lower end of this shaft is secured a stud, 16,provided with small notches 17, into which a tooth, 1S, of the spring'19 drops to retain it in position. By turning the stud 16, therefore,the position relative to cach other of the slide T and lever R isvaried, and consequently thelimitof the forward movement ofthe blades Gis regulated.

The shaft M communicates motion by means of the cam N', cam-rod X, andconnecting-link to onearm of a bent lever, Y, turning on a pivot, f,which is secured to the frame of the machine below the bed-plate. To theother arm of this bent lever the rod Z is pivotcd. The rod Zcommunicates motion to one arm, g, of a bent lever pivotcd at t to aprojection on the bed-plate. The other arm, k, of this bent lever (seeFigs. 18 and 19) projects above the pin r, secured to the rod s, whichlatter is pressed upward by a spring, u. The rod s moves in a hole in aprojection, 2,4, Fig. 18, on the under side of the bed-plate of themachine, and passes through an aperture in the center -of the pinion F,which vibrates the threadrcarrier C. To ahead on the ripper part of therod s the studs D E D E are secured.

y By the movement down, therefore, of the lever-arm k the studs aredepressed, and atits upward movement they are returned to their iirstposition by the action of the spring u.

To adjust the movement of these studs so that they may be timed withgreat accuracy, the point m at which the motion of the rod Z iscommunicated to the lever-arm g may be shifted by means of twocheck-nuts, 25, Fig. 13, so that the lever-arm la wlll bear sooner orlater, as desired, on the pin r.

I From the foregoing description the construction and means forcommunicating motion to the several parts will be readily understood,

The limit to the' as also the means for effecting the variousa'djustments. I will therefore describe the operation of formin g thestitches, omitting reference to mechanism employed to impart to theseveral stitch-formi n g devices the irnecessary movements from the mainshaft of the machine. When the needle-hooks are in their lowestpositions, as shown in Figs. l and 2,the threadcarrier C commences itsmovement from the left to the right to lay the thread against the `hooksA. The spring-blades a o are in their highest position, being heldthereby the pressure of the studs Dl E. The thread being secured at l tothe preceding stitch, the threadcarrier C lays it trst around the studD,'then around the stud D', then against the 4needlehooks A, Figs. land2, then against the studs E e and E. The blades G, advancing all thistime against the needles, push the thread between them, while theneedles commence their upward motion, as shown in the positions Figs. 5and 3. Vhile the blades G advance between the hooks the studs` D D and EE descend,

and the spring n retains the loose loop by pressing it against plate p,so that the needles A cannot make any drop-stitches, and as the blades Gadvance farther the loose loop held by the spring a, Fig. 3, will beemployed for` supplying the necessary length of thread to the hooks A.

During this operation the spring-blade o is kept open by thethread-carrier C, whose tubeis provided with a projection, a, while thethread Vissues from the inner and lower Side, I). i

When the blades G have arrived at their extreme' positions, Fig. 3, theyimmediately commence their backward motion ,but each blade retains` itsloop by means of a small hook, fr, Figs. 4, S, and 9, and the backwardmotion of the blades G is timed in such a manner. that the loops y z,which are between the hook A and the blades G, are kept tight until thehook A arrives in the line ofthe cloth-plate, when each loop is releasedand carried above the cloth-plate, as shown at Fig. 7.

rlhe thread-carrier (l having laidwits thread behind the studs E E, Fig.3, said studs now rise to their highest position, so that when thethread-carrier C returns forY the next following operation it-lays itsthread around the studs E E', Fig. 6.

The hooks A having drawn their loops abovethecloth,Fig.7,thefeedtakesplace. Thehooks descend, lay the loops upon`the cloth, and descend through them for the next following operation.Thus a new stitch is formed, which is composed on the upper side ofseveral parallel.

chain-stitches, which are united one to the other by the thread on theunder side, and thus constitute a rm and secure embroidery, which willserve not only for ornamental purposes,

` but also for binding and edge-work to all sorts of goods.

essary to guide the thread when it is laid in' front of the hooks A, sothat the latter do not descend in front of the thread and thus causedrop-stitches. e

It is evident that the number of needlehooks employed can be increasedor reduced to produce wider or narrower seams.

Having thus fully described the nature of my invention, what I claimtherein.- as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is'- 1. Themethod of producing several parallel or embroidering seams with a singlethread at one and the same time, the same consisting in simultaneouslypassing through the fabric to be sewed or embroidered a series of loops,formed in the thread, then forming a second series of loops and passingthem through the fabric and' through the loops Iirst named, and socontinuing with successive series of loops, the several series beingseparated from each other by suitable distances, substantially asdescribed.

2. The combination, with a number of simultaneously reciprocatingneedle-hooks, of a thread-carrier, arranged substantially as described,for placing a thread in said hooks at each downward motionof them, andconnecting and operating mechanism, substantially asset forth.

e 3. The combination, in a sewing or embroidering machine, with a numberof needle-hooks and means for simultaneously reciprocating them, of thethread-carrier,studs, reciprocating` blades, and operating mechanism,substantially as described.

4. The combination, with anumberof needlehooks, the thread-carrier, thestuds, the reciprocating blades, and operating mechanism, of thespring-blades, substantiallyas described.

5. The combination, in a sewing or embroiderin g machine, of thefollowing elements: first, the main shaft of the machine 5 second, anumber of needle-bars and needle-hooks secured thereto 5 third, meansfor securing and simultaneously reciprocating the needle-bars atVeighth, a plate secured to the machine-frameY .below the bed-plate;ninth, spring-blades secured to said plate; tenth, four studs eleventh,means for retaining by spring-pressure said studs in contact withaforesaid spring-blades; twelfth, means for withdrawing said studs fromcontact with the spring-blades at each revolution of the aforesaid mainshaft, and for regulating the time of said withdrawal, sub-l stantiallyas described. y

6. The combination, with the needle-hooks and means for reciprocatingthe same, of the link turning on said pin and pivoted to saidthread-carrier, studs, and operating mechanslide, substantially asdescribed. ism, substantially as described.

7. The combination, with a .reciprocating` E (JORNELY' slide and anumber of hooked blades attached vWitnesses: to one end thereof, of theoperat-ingiever, ec- ROBT. M. HOOPER, centric pin carried thereby, andthe connectingl J. A. MOKEAN.

